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Of all the sensory assaults that occur in the swirling midst of this all-out party experience, it is the sheer quantity of Sounds that overwhelm the capacity to process. A mile-long stretch of Old San Juan waterfront is wired with PA speakers spreading the Joyous Noise from the main stage like a thick layer of sticky-sweet icing over the dense chocolate cake of homogenous Latin-flavored crowd noise. The decorative embellishments occur as you move through the crowd and come within audible range of various sonic sources ...a dance band playing salsa for a ship reception ...the DJ spinning oldies and swing at the hotel Pina Colada bar ...roving bands of drums and trumpets. All overlaid with random occurrences of shrill whistles, police sirens and booming ship horns. Given a suitably altered mental state, the whole thing takes on a weird John Cage-like audio resonance that creates music from noise, symphony from cacophony, order from chaos.
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And this is world-class Chaos, straight from the churning cauldrons of the Great Void. Take more than a dozen tall ships and crews, from nearly as many countries ...add every conceivable local political truth-spin dilemma ...sprinkle with Alpha authority-trips by Immigration, Customs and Coast Guard ...and yet the massive throngs thrive on the lush upwelling of Heart, Spirit and Passion. These Puerto Rican people know how to party, with an innate talent for spontaneous celebrations of the Joy of Life ...inviting, intoxicating and completely invigorating. |
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The ships are magnificent, the crews smartly sailor-like in dress whites. There seems to be friendly, but ernest, competition regarding the Style of Arrival. Cadets aloft in the rigging, music and singing, huge flags evoking national pride are all on display as the ships slowly slide their way to the pier. Each arrival draws an appreciative crowd, held at bay by cordons of green-shirted teenage volunteers. More than one furtive admiring glance is exchanged between the female green shirts and the cadets lining the ship rails, foretelling exotic adventures yet to come. |
Tall ship Cisne Branco of Brazil leads the Parade of Sail |
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